KEEP YOUR FACE ON!

Post + Photography by Amy Nadine, Graphic Design by Eunice Chun

This two-product wonder is critical if you want your makeup to last when the temperature rises. If you've surrendered to the idea that your foundation can only last a couple of hours this summer, I promise you, you're mistaken! You just need the right primer before you apply it then you have to lock it in with a setting spray. Here's how:

TOOLS:

• Long-lasting Primer - there are many primers available today, some are hydrating, others are radiating... so it's a little overwhelming. In this case, you want to look for one that is long lasting. I love Benefit Stay Flawless 15-Hour Primer because it actually lasts for all day (believe me, it has saved me on never-ending commercial shoots when I thought I'd have to redo the makeup halfway through only to be happily surprised that it looked like I just applied it).
• Setting Spray - you can set your makeup with all kinds of water sprays; Evian Vaporizing Mist, Floral Waters, etc and all will do the job. But if you live in a really humid area and know you're going to "glow" a little more that day (ok, perspire profusely!), try Skindinavia No More Shine Makeup Finish. I swear by it because it prevents makeup from smearing or creasing and really controls shine.

STEPS:

1. On bare skin (or moisturized if your skin is really dry), apply the primer by sweeping it all over your face directly from the stick.
2. Now you can apply your foundation (pick one with full spectrum sunscreen) with a foundation brush, fingers or a sponge. Powder your t-zone if necessary.
3. After you've applied the rest of your makeup (but before mascara), finish by holding the setting spray bottle 10-12 inches from your face and spritz five times (one for each area: forehead, right cheek, left cheek, nose and chin).

SETTING YOUR MAKEUP WITHOUT CAKING IT

POST + PHOTOS BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

For years I used a big fluffy brush to powder my clients’ faces after foundation, even though in makeup school we were taught to use a powder puff. It just felt more luxurious and didn’t have to be restocked all the time like a puff. But last year, I went back to a puff because I started getting frustrated with the way the brush was not only pushing and sliding the cream blush from the area I specifically placed it, but it was also grabbing onto the foundation and making everything a little cakey. Not good. So I went back to the puff press technique created by the masters of Old Hollywood cinema back in the late 30′s and felt a little stupid that I ever strayed. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

• Loose Powder: I used Korres Mineral Loose Powder to give more coverage (and it’s 100% natural and talc-free), but any setting powder will do.
• Powder Puff: I used Cinema Secrets Pro Puff but you can use any from your local drug store or beauty supply.

STEPS:

1. Sprinkle a good amount of powder onto puff.
2. Fold the puff together like a taco, with the powder in the middle and your two thumbs on either side like demonstrated above.
3. Rub the sides back and forth against each other to really work the powder into the puff.
4. Fold the puff in the opposite direction so the powder is now on the outside.
5. Press and roll the puff all over the face or your t-zone to really press the powder onto the foundation.

If you really want to spoil yourself, Cle de Peau Translucent Powder is the holy grail of setting powders because the powder is ultra-fine and creates a radiant sheen while the puff feels like cashmere! It’s an investment but my personal one has lasted me a couple years.

NYFW EYES: BRIGHT OR BARELY THERE

photos: gorunway.com/graphic design: eunice chun/post: amy nadine

Such a contrast this season on the eyes of the runways of New York Fashion Week! We saw either really bright and fun washes of color inspired by the clothes or very minimal eye makeup that let the fashion have center stage. And… we were able to get the 411 from the head makeup artists at a few of the shows to find out exactly what they used in case you want to recreate the looks yourself!

BRIGHT EYES HIGHLIGHTS

• Jenny Packham: Makeup artist Talia Shobrook layered Laura Mercier Eye Pencil in Midnight Black Turquoise over Midnight Blue all over the lid then set it with Laura Mercier Baked Eye Colour in Lagoon. That color is heaven! She then applied Laura Mercier Creme Eye Colour in Platinum from the crease up to the brow bone and finished the look with Laura Mercier Faux Lash Mascara.

• Peter Som: Makeup artist Tom Pecheux wanted an ombre watercolor effect on the eyes and used his fingers to apply MAC Eye Paints for a DIY feel (these are our favorites). He focused the lighter version of the shade on the lid, the medium version on the crease and the darker version of the shade on the brow bone.

• Nanette Lepore: Makeup artist Max Delorme used MAC Pro Paint Slicks by mixing Pure White with the colorful shades to instantly make them into pastels without losing any intensity and applied them all over the lid.

• Donna Karan: Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury traced MAC Lip Liner in Magenta (no that isn’t a typo!) on both the upper and lower lashlines then instead of mascara, she painted MAC Pro Chromaline in Process Magenta on the lashes. So cool.

• Monique Lhuillier: Makeup artist Val Garland lined the upper lid with MAC Chromagraphic Pencil in High Def Cyan then followed it with a sweep of MAC Electric Eel Eye Shadow.

MINIMAL EYES HIGHLIGHTS

• DKNY: Makeup artist Charlotte Willer applied Maybelline Eye Studio Master Shape Brow Pencil to fill in the brows then applied Maybelline Baby Lips in Quench on the lids for a glossy look. She then finished the look with three coats of Maybelline Volum’ Express Mega-Plush Mascara.

• Victoria Beckham: Makeup artist Diane Kendal used the neutral eye shadow Maybelline Eye Studio Color Explosion in Caffeine Rush and instead of mascara, she drew a thin black line very close to the lashline with Maybelline Eye Studio Master Precise Ink Pen Eyeliner in Black.

• Naeem Khan: Makeup artist James Boehmer used NARS Madgue Duo Eyeshadow with a couple coats of NARS Larger Than Life Mascara.

• Oscar De La Renta + J. Mendel: Makeup artist Gucci Westman used Revlon ColorStay 16H Eyeshadow Quad in Addictive, Revlon ColorStay Eyeliner in Brown and Revlon PhotoReady 3D Volume Mascara for both shows.