FACE BRUSH MASTER CLASS

POST BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Welcome back to Brush Class, beauties! If you remember, a couple months ago I showed you which face brushes to use for different coverage (revisit it here). Today we're taking it a step further and showing you which brush to use for all the different finds of complexion products. And the new brushes out there now are what I'm most excited about! I can't even begin to tell you how far face brushes have come since I went to makeup school back in 2003. We applied foundation (which only came in two forms, liquid and cream) with a sponge! So come with me on this journey as I simplify everything for you and open your world to the next generation of brushes!

BB CREAM: Instead of a regular foundation brush, use a Light Coverage Foundation Brush (try Dior Backstage Foundation Light Coverage Fluid Brush

) because BB Creams (like my favorite Benefit Big Easy BB Cream) look gorgeous when you apply them in layers, and this brush is designed to layer thinly instead of depositing a lot at once.

CREAM FOUNDATION: You're going to DIE for this type of brush. It's my new favorite thing ever and it makes me so happy!! It's a hybrid between a Buffing Brush and a traditional Foundation Brush but its shape and dense head really press the foundation into the skin when you swirl it in circles across your face and neck. The best one I've found so far is the Marc Jacobs The Face II Sculpting Brush and my favorite cream foundation is Jouer Age-Repairing Perfector Foundation

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LIQUID FOUNDATION: Most of us use a typical Foundation Brush for Liquid Foundation and can continue to do so if you want really full coverage. But if you don't want anyone to see that you're wearing foundation, invest in the BECCA The One Perfecting Brush because it's designed so the product sits on top of the bristles instead of absorbing it, allowing you to deposit it more evenly without wasting it. And the long design makes contouring areas so-o easy. And you know we're still so obsessed with NARS Sheer Glow Foundation

because it gives great coverage with the perfect amount of luminosity.

POWDER FOUNDATION: I used to use a fluffy powder brush to apply powder foundation until I discovered the buffing power of a kabuki brush! Try Tarte Airbuki Bamboo Powder Foundation Brush

with Josie Maran Matchmaker Argan Powder Foundation.

SPRAY FOUNDATION: You can use a Spray Foundation in two ways. You can spray it directly from the can (our favorite is the cult classic Dior 'Diorskin Airflash' Spray Foundation

) or you can spray it in the palm of your cupped hand, swirl the Blurring Brush over it then swirl it all over the face and neck. A Blurring Brush works with liquid foundation as well and gives the most beautiful airbrushed finish of all the brushes. Our favorite is Urban Decay Good Karma Foundation Brush

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BRONZE/HIGHLIGHT/BLUSH: Wait until you get your hands on this uber-wide fan brush and get into the habit of gently grazing your cheek products with it! Try the MAKE UP FOR EVER 134 Large Powder Fan Brush with Urban Decay Naked Flushed Cheek Palette

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**Please keep in mind that these are just our preferences and we welcome your constructive comments on your preferences below. We're just so excited about the evolution of face brushes that we wanted to introduce them to you if you haven't discovered them already. We know they are pricey so if you know of less expensive alternatives, please share them as well! What I did when building my kit was invest in one new brush a month, knowing that they last for at least a decade (some a lifetime if you take care of them properly!). But you could build your arsenal even more slowly with a new one every few months. And revisit my Brush Wash Tutorial and take good care of them!

SETTING YOUR MAKEUP WITHOUT CAKING IT

POST + PHOTOS BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

For years I used a big fluffy brush to powder my clients’ faces after foundation, even though in makeup school we were taught to use a powder puff. It just felt more luxurious and didn’t have to be restocked all the time like a puff. But last year, I went back to a puff because I started getting frustrated with the way the brush was not only pushing and sliding the cream blush from the area I specifically placed it, but it was also grabbing onto the foundation and making everything a little cakey. Not good. So I went back to the puff press technique created by the masters of Old Hollywood cinema back in the late 30′s and felt a little stupid that I ever strayed. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

• Loose Powder: I used Korres Mineral Loose Powder to give more coverage (and it’s 100% natural and talc-free), but any setting powder will do.
• Powder Puff: I used Cinema Secrets Pro Puff but you can use any from your local drug store or beauty supply.

STEPS:

1. Sprinkle a good amount of powder onto puff.
2. Fold the puff together like a taco, with the powder in the middle and your two thumbs on either side like demonstrated above.
3. Rub the sides back and forth against each other to really work the powder into the puff.
4. Fold the puff in the opposite direction so the powder is now on the outside.
5. Press and roll the puff all over the face or your t-zone to really press the powder onto the foundation.

If you really want to spoil yourself, Cle de Peau Translucent Powder is the holy grail of setting powders because the powder is ultra-fine and creates a radiant sheen while the puff feels like cashmere! It’s an investment but my personal one has lasted me a couple years.